The book presents things in a jumbled order, and is frequently confusingly worded. I've tried to find all the techniques and present them in the order you would use them.
Start with a 3 inch deep layer of dry, coarsly ground "hay" of kudzu (or other legume) and sudex (or other fibrous material). Water evenly to moisten. Put 2 inches of cow manure or 1 inch of chicken manure on top, then 1/4 inch of garden soil, a sprinkling of colloidal clay and either granite dust or wood ashes.
Repeat the layers, including shredded green kudzu (or other legume) in the "hay" layers, until the bin is full and rounded. Cover with a tarp to protect from rain. Water pile by hand as needed to keep moist.
Every 3 days (or as often as the interior reaches 160 degrees), use a pitchfork to transfer the pile from one bin to the other, taking care to move the outside layers of the old pile to the interior of the new pile. After two weeks, turn once a week until no more heating occurs. Store in barrels, garbage cans, etc. for up to three years, adding water as needed to keep moist.
Dig a hole 24 inches wide and 6 inches deep, reserving the soil to refill the hole. Dig the hole 6 inches deeper and scatter that soil around the garden. Mix 1 part compost to 3 parts reserved soil (skim soil from the surface elsewhere in the garden to supplement the reserved soil as needed) and refill the hole with that, firming as you fill, and leaving a depression in the center where the plant will go.
Pinch off all leaf stems except the top pair, but leave the buds to produce suckers. Set the plant at its original depth, just barely covering the root ball.
Make a 4 foot wide, 1/4 inch deep band of compost or well-rotted manure along each side of the row, one foot away from the plants. Cover that lightly with alfalfa meal, till them together, and smooth.
Mulch is made from baled straw that has weathered for a few months. Break a straw bale into square mats several inches thick. Consider the plant the center square of a 3x3 grid. Put straw mats in the 8 outer squares, pressing the edges together firmly to make a weed-proof barrier. Fill the center square with finely chopped leaves or straw about an inch deep.
When the plants are tall enough to need support, form a cage from 6-inch mesh concrete reinforcement wire 5 feet by 9 feet. It should have 19 vertical (5 foot long) wires. Form it into a cylinder 5 feet high and 3 feet wide, joining the ends with hog rings. Move the watering pipes out from the plants enough to set the cage over the plant, on top of the mulch. 24- to 30-inch lengths of rebar, each with a hook welded on one end, can be used like tent pegs to anchor the cages. For each cage, hammer three pegs (spaced evenly around the cage) into the ground so that the bottom of the peg is inside the cage, and the hook rests securely over the second wire from the ground. To support the plant while it is small, insert 3 bamboo sticks through the cage so that they form a triangle enclosing the stem of the plant, and tie them to the cage.
The first pair of water pipes should now be just outside the cages, and a second pair of pipes should be added 3 feet further out.
As other suckers grow, if they come from a strong section of the vine, allow them to grow until they produce a flower cluster, then pinch the tip out of the sucker. Otherwise, pinch out the whole sucker. If the sucker is already more than 1 1/2 inches long, pinch the tip instead of removing the whole sucker.
As the vines grow up, you may want to stack a second cage on top of the first, attaching with hog rings. On stacked cages, you should use guy wires for extra stability.
Never touch wet leaves. Remove diseased foliage from the garden and do not compost it. Use a torch to sanitize your cages each year.